Launceston’s Heart

For me, as a Tasmanian, the Cataract Gorge is the true heart of the city of Launceston. It is a breath-taking, naturally-occurring wonder carved by the South Esk River flowing into a tidal estuary known as the Tamar River. Whether the Gorge waters are peaceful or powerfully crashing in flood, it is always a beautiful spectacle.

 

The Cataract Gorge Reserve can be accessed in different ways. For drivers, the main entrance is on Basin Road in the suburb of West Launceston with ample pay-and-display car parking. This gives visitors the most immediate experience of the First Basin, where the South Esk pools before moving to the Tamar.

 

There is also Gorge Road, which can be taken through the suburb of Trevallyn, ending in a very small car park on the north side of the reserve. This is great for dining at the lovely Gorge Restaurant in the evenings. Extra care should be taken, though, to avoid the nocturnal wildlife sometimes crossing the road.

 

From the city, walking access is via two paths. Cataract Walk is a steady, flat and sealed path with its entrance on the northern end of King’s Bridge. It is the most popular path, catering to all age groups and abilities and is close to the river. This makes it ideal for a leisurely stroll to take in and photograph the scenery. It ends at the Cliff Grounds, a shaded Victorian garden. Here, you’ll find beautiful lawns, a rotunda, giant rhododendrons bursting with colour, ferns, peacocks, wallabies, pademelons and the Gorge Restaurant.

The second path from the city, the Zig Zag Track, begins on the southern side of King’s Bridge and winds through a bushland reserve on the opposite side of the river. It is a tough and sometimes steep, up and down hike, which suits visitors with a good level of physical fitness. The Zig Zag Track Lookout is a great place to rest and take in the stunning view before continuing on to the First Basin.

 

Whichever way you choose to enter, the Cataract Gorge Reserve is a wonderful space to experience. The cliffs surrounding the gorge and basin waters provide a natural amphitheatre-like environment. Indeed, many concerts were held on the grounds throughout the years.

There is an expansive grassed area, perfect for relaxing and recreation, as well as a swimming pool, café, playground, funicular and BBQ facilities. It is beautiful all year round, but, whether you choose the lifeguarded pool or the unguarded basin, I’d recommend swimming in the warmer months!

 

The reserve also boasts the world’s longest single-spanning chairlift, with the first span 308 metres long and the second span 149 metres long. Operating since 1972, it’s a great way for up to two passengers per seat to get another perspective of the magnificent surroundings and to take some unique photos. It travels slowly between the reserve entrance and the Cliff Grounds, single trips or returns.

As a kid, living in Launceston, I fondly remember listening to the radio coverage of a visiting circus performer, Alphonse Bugler, bravely tight rope walking the first span of the chairlift’s cable. He climbed down after that feat and made his return trip on the footpath!

There are many paths and tracks in and around the reserve. The First Basin Track is one of the most popular, leading to the Alexandra Lookout via the Alexandra Suspension Bridge over the river and on to the Cliff Grounds round the western edge of the basin. Photos on and from the suspension bridge are a must.

For more active and curious visitors, the First Basin Track can be followed past the bridge, upriver, to the Interpretation Centre at the old Duck Reach Power Station. Commissioned in 1893, it powered the city on its own from 1895 until 1934 (even after being destroyed by floods in late 1929 and quickly rebuilt by 1930). From then, it worked in unison with other plants, specifically the Trevallyn Dam Power Station, until it was decommissioned in the mid-fifties.

 

Even after travelling to many different countries around the world, I am still consistently amazed by what’s in my own “backyard”. The Cataract Gorge Reserve is so close to the CBD of Launceston, yet once you’re in the reserve’s embrace, the city feels so far away.

In addition to all the beautiful places and landmarks around the globe, I often wonder about other travel bloggers and how they feel about their favourite tourist attractions that are local to them. I mean, the Eiffel Tower is local to someone, right?

Let me know if you’d like to read about more places local to me. And share your favourite local places that you know international visitors would love to experience.